I write this in the knowledge that I have to leave Beirut several days before I intended to. A mixture of circumstances have conspired to get me back to Britain this weekend rather than next Wednesday. Somewhere in the process of getting here I’ve injured my foot to the extent that I cannot walk without it hurting. Beirut isn’t the kind of city where you can sit around – you need to get out and walk, a lot! And walk I’ve done, today at least, with a great deal of pain.

Beirut is by far the craziest city I’ve visited anywhere in the world. The single word I could use to describe this place would by schizophrenic. This is a city of amazing contrasts. I live in central London and I’ve never seen so many Range Rovers or Mercedes in a single day. Those luxury cars share road space with the archetypal white jeeps with a big black “UN” painted on the side (they’re here as part of the UNIFIL peace-keeping & stabilisation mission). At the same time you’ll find children tapping the windows for change. The downtown/”centre ville” area is absolutely pristine – cleaner even than Geneva. Other parts of town are shabbier, but overall Beirut leads other cities in the region in terms of cleanliness and tidiness.

Last night when I arrived, after spending about an hour walking around the Gemmayzeh district, I was under the false impression that Beirut is a city of serenity. Today’s experiences have proven otherwise. The noise of the traffic here is inescapable. The fumes from the car exhaust are ever-present. I have never seen traffic chaos like I saw today. There is serenity in places though, like the main Al-Omari mosque, which is one of the most beautiful structures I’ve seen – it’s like a huge yellow & blue diamond just fell out of the sky. You can’t walk anywhere near it without being captivated by its beauty and presence.

The Beirutis too are a contradiction in terms. You have the most glamorous looking people who could compete with the elites in London, Paris or New York. But they share a city with people at the far opposite end of that spectrum. A vast swathe of land between the seafront and the main down-town area has been reserved for luxurious high-rise apartments buildings, and hotels like the Four Seasons with its imposing security barricades and Lebanese tanks and soldiers on guard outside. The Hezbollah area in the south, quite close to the city’s international airport is a little less glam, but it appears on the outside at least, to serve its purpose.

People say that the Lebanese are quite an insular people, and I have mixed feelings about that. It’s not terribly difficult to start a conversation with people, but also I can see that many Beirutis can come across as snobbish and closed off. If you know people here though, I guess you might see things differently. People in the Middle East are usually impressed to speak to a white foreigner (this sounds awful I know), but not here. They don’t really give a damn who you are, because you’re in Beirut!

This is the last post from Lebanon – I will post some pictures I took when I get home.